STEWART HOUSE IS BACK, AND MAKING A SPLASH.(LIFE-TODAY)

Publication:
Albany Times Union (Albany, NY)
Publish date:
September 12, 2004

Byline: WILLIAM M. DOWD Associate editor

In an area with two mighty rivers coursing through it, you'd think it would be a slam-dunk to find Capital Region restaurants of all types at the waters' edge. You'd think that, but you'd be wrong.

Interesting, then, that in the tiny village of Athens -- population 1,700 souls, many living in Victorian-style homes -- there are three restaurants clustered right on the edge of the Hudson River on the aptly named North Water Street. They range from the homey neighborhood cafe that is Ursula's to the tony new Dionysus and the historic Stewart House.

It was the Stewart House that drew our quartet to the Greene County community on a recent Sunday, anxious to see the refurbished hotel/tavern/restaurant that once had enough atmosphere to be used for a Meryl Streep death scene in the 1987 film ``Ironweed.''

The latest incarnation still sports beautifully finished wood plank floors of varying widths, ornate tin ceilings, massive bi-fold wooden doors and a cozy bar inside the main entrance. Fresh sunflower-yellow walls and a general scrubbing have restored a lot of the luster to the iconic establishment.

Nods to the present lie in the back dining room, where one wall is dominated by a movie screen above a bar for Wednesday's dinner-and-a-movie offering and other walls hold modernistic black-and-white photos in sharp contrast to the aged structure.

The Victorian-style building has been in operation on various levels since 1883. That is when Hardy Stewart, a local businessman and one-time sheriff, built his three-story hotel and restaurant opposite the river docks where commercial ferries once called regularly to pick up produce from local farmers. Steamboat passengers, many headed to nearby Catskill resorts, and crewmen were regulars at the Stewart House. The current owner, Owen Lipstein, acquired it in 2000 and reopened it in May as a restaurant and bed-and-breakfast.

Our foursome opted for a table in the main dining room, served by a team of friendly, efficient waitstaff.

Over icy cocktails, we divvied up the menu possibilities -- not difficult, given that there are only seven listed under entrees and the advertised special was not available even though we were the first customers of the evening. (A quick check of the bistro menu, however, revealed a pair of non-sandwich items that supplemented the entree list.)

The starters worked well all around, with the most impressive being a clever salad of roasted beets and goat cheese, alternately layered and sliced to create a striped effect, with mixed greens and roasted pine nuts, drizzled with a red wine vinaigrette.

The smoked trout was a sizable piece of the firm, salty fish abetted by a chilled horseradish cream, capers and chives, presented in an attractive minimalist arrangement. The fried calamari was so lightly breaded and fried it seemed to be a tempura-style, nicely accompanied by a rough-chopped tomato marinara. And, the soup of the day was a thick lentil, lightly nuanced with a host of earthy vegetables and a rich stock.

The most attention-grabbing of the entrees was the huge seafood Mediterranean platter -- a generous assemblage of mussels, calamari, shrimp and clams perched atop a mound of linguine and doused with a garlicky tomato sauce.

The other dishes were a more realistic size, all plated with the aim of creating eye appeal. On one, lean roasted pork tenderloin had been sliced into rounds and accented with wedges of tangy Granny Smith apples, sided by Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and green beans. On another, a properly aged 14-ounce New York strip steak was served with an herbed maitre d'butter (an au poivre version also is available) plus mashed potatoes and green beans. On still another, thinly sliced chicken breast was done in the Francaise style, dredged and sauteed in lemon, butter and white wine, accompanied by yummy wilted spinach and red bliss potatoes.

Desserts, all made locally, were an excellent pecan pie, a creme brulee unfortunately chilled, and a so-so blueberry pie.

Our bill, including two rounds of cocktails but before tip, was $181, or about $45 each. A note: The River Garden Bar sits opposite the parent Stewart House right at the water's edge. Weather-worn benches and other seating in a brick courtyard lead to the open-air gazebo bar and a great view of the Hudson. A nice place for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail and some serious maritime contemplation. Open 4-11 p.m. Fridays, 2-11 p.m. weekends. William M. Dowd's restaurant reviews are archived online at http://timesunion.com/entertainment/restaurants. His own Web site covering travel, food and drink is http://TasteForTravel.com.

FACTS:Restaurant Review STEWART HOUSE 2 N. Water St. Athens, NY 12015 Phone: 945-1357 Online: http://www.stewarthouse.com

Credit cards: AE, M, V. Parking/access: Free parking areas. Steep steps to main building. Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Average entree: $18 (bistro menu $10.50). Food/beverages (3 stars): Classic American menu. Full bar, modest wine list. Service (2 stars): Personable, flexible. Atmosphere (3 stars): Refurbished 1883 lodging house. Overall rating: 3 stars

Key: One to four stars -- four exceptional, two average. Overall rating a rough average of the three categories with major emphasis on food.

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